The Roar

Many courses in Northern areas have begun their annual rite of late Summer, early Fall-the roar of the hollow tine cultivation unit followed by burying the putting surface, tee or fairway in sand topdressing. Is this a hold-over from a time when we aerified twice per year or is it something we need to keep doing?

Is this a hold-over from a time when we aerified twice per year or is it something we need to keep doing?

In simple terms if you have a sand-based root-zone, i.e., greater than 85% sand, you have a few options. First, if you want to minimize any coring-solid, hollow or needle, then you better be prepared to apply between 17 and 22 cubic yards of sand per year, of once very five days.

If you are willing to cultivate regularly during the season with a less invasive method and avoid “the roar” in Spring and Fall then be sure to apply the same amount of topdressing but you can apply it less frequently at 7-10 days. If you want to keep roaring the aerifier and are also willing to make a monthly hole then you can topdress every 10-14 days.

If you want to keep roaring the aerifier and are also willing to make a monthly hole then you can topdress every 10-14 days.

If you have a good sand-base then as we have said before that a “hole is a hole” and you can save lots of labor by simply solid tining and topdressing behind it. The key to effective surface organic matter management is dilution of the OM with sand. The coring or solid tining or needle tining is nothing more than making room for the sand. Hardly anything to roar about.

 

3 Responses to The Roar

  • Keith Pegg says:

    One one point in the last paragraph I would sand first and then solid core the top dresser is heavy and leaves wheel tracks in the greens/ tees and you see almost no tracks if done first. I also sand first if hollow core on sand greens, not on soil greens. Then drag and remove just the grass head of the plug.

    • Frank Rossi says:

      he keith…i have heard guys use the approach you suggest…sometimes it depends on the sand in the rootzone…some more shifty than others

  • Glenn Kirby says:

    Our sand based root zone is very unstable so we sand, solid tine then roll with a brush fitted to the roller. Most effective way I’ve come up with so far for a speedy recovery.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


Recent Comments